The day begins and ends in darkness. Tired as you might be, you will thank your guide later for waking you before dawn. After a welcome hot breakfast you head out into the world's oldest desert. Visiting the Namib during the summer means that the heat will be your steady companion, but this also makes for a more sparsely populated landscape. There are fewer tourists here, and you will have much of the vast space to yourself.
We begin our morning at Dune 45, made famous by proximity to the road that allows for easy access. Climbing to the top is quite an achievement. You find yourself afraid to slip and fall, even though the thick sand will prevent you from moving more than a foot or two. Thanks to your early departure, the air still feels cool, and your slow ascent is rewarded as the magnificent vista comes into full view. I am struck by the smooth surface of the dunes; it appears that my footsteps are the first. This is thanks to ever-present winds that smooth the surface of the dunes at day's end, leaving a blank canvas for the next morning's visitors. I capture a few compulsory "I climbed a sand dune" pictures. Now the real fun begins.
The previous afternoon, our guide, Nanguei, told me that I would be 'swimming down a sand dune'. I immediately conjured an image of myself sinking in sand up to my ears while I tried to kick my way out. This is not what he meant. By way of demonstrating for the other guests, he has me get into position first, and I am nervous when he tells me to lie down on my stomach, facing the bottom of the dune. It's hard to describe the feeling of sliding head first down a sand dune, but my adjoining picture is evidence that I was smiling from start to finish. 
Next on offer is a trip to Sossusvlei itself, home of the world's tallest sand dunes, in excess of 300 metres. It is hotter now, and we stop short of climbing these dunes. It is enough to walk to the "shore" of Dead Vlei and wonder at the parched pan with its famous skeletons; dead camel thorn trees, perhaps over 500 years old, are an eerie testament to the presence of water here before drought and sand dunes left the ground parched. Sossusvlei itself is still blessed by occasional flows from the Tsauchab River that fill the pan, attracting birds and lilies alike. The vlei is dry when we reach it, but this does not detract from its surreal beauty. Scanning the grand dunes, my eyes catch sight of a family of gemsbok. I am reminded that the most astonishing thing about the Namib is the presence of so much life in a place that seems completely inhospitable at best. As if to mock my ineptitude at facing the heat of the desert, animals can be found at every turn - and they are often running. When you've attempted to climb a sand dune at dawn, you gain a remarkable appreciation for a springbok that pronks at full speed in the midday sun. These animals put our poor climatic defences to shame. Springbok survive in times of little water by eating succulent plants. Ostrich raise their wings and body feathers to take advantage of cool breezes. Gemsbok can survive without ever drinking water; they dig for roots and bulbs that provide them with all the moisture they need, and a complex series of blood vessels in the nasal cavity prevents the gemsbok's brain from overheating even when its body temperature rises as high as 45˚ Celsius.
After enjoying the sights of Sossusvlei, we return to camp to spend the hottest part of the day in retreat back at Kulala Desert Lodge, enjoying stunning views of the dunes and desert landscape a safe distance from the sun. By 6pm it is cool enough again to emerge once more, this time to the ancient Sesriem Canyon, carved over two million years by the Tsauchab River. Historically important for early settlers because of its precious water, it now provides for a fascinating stop amidst the parched Namib sands. We are able to walk inside the canyon and sit by the water's edge, a perfect place to contemplate the contrasts that exist in this magnificent desert. We finish the day with a short drive in the Kulala Wilderness Reserve, catching a glimpse of two black-backed jackals before stopping for sundowners and toasting to the day's adventures. I raise my glass in the hopes that I will find myself here again soon.
The wonders of this desert do not fade with the setting sun. You also have the option of sleeping on the roof of your kulala, cradled by calm evening breeze. Turning my eyes upwards I am met with a night sky so illuminated by stars it literally takes my breath away. I leave Kulala Desert Lodge wondering if I will ever see constellations so bright again.
As I reflect on a day in the Namib, it becomes clear that the desert is not like anywhere else. If you seek space and solitude, communing with an environment that dares its plentiful inhabitants to survive immense harshness, or perhaps the chance to swim in sand, then a visit to Kulala Wilderness Reserve will leave you astonished and exhilarated.
Abiella Schneider-Friedman